• Growing of most epiphytic orchids with thick roots, such as: Phalaenopsis, Cymbidium, Dendrobium, Cattleya, Vanda, Paphiopedilum and others
• Plantings in houses and conservatories
• The pine bark is hard, cleaned and composted. Provides optimal conditions for healthy development and growth of orchids. It accepts a safe amount of water, perfectly imitates the natural environment of epiphytic orchids
• Coconut chips (made from coconut shells) absorb water very well and do not interfere with the flow of air
• Special mineral additives - expanded clay, lava and perlite - ensure proper drainage and porosity, which translates into exceptional air conditions. In addition, they are resistant to degradation over time, so they guarantee longer soil stability
• Salinity: < 2,0g/l
• Structure: 0-20mm
• The best time to replant orchids is spring
• Interventionally, when we see that the old substrate has lost its loose structure or the plant is too large, we can gently overdo it
Transplanting
• We choose a clean flowerpot with numerous drainage holes
• Pour the soil into the bottom of orchids
• Carefully remove the plant from the old pot
• Dead roots are gently removed, twisted - loosens
• We put the orchid (it should grow so deep that the lowest leaf is just above the ground) and gradually add the ground between the roots, gently shaking the pot
• We fill the pot with orchid base up to 2 cm below the edge
• Water the newly planted plant after 2 weeks (the wounds on the roots must dry out)
• To replant the ground orchid, it is best to mix this soil with universal soil in a ratio of 1: 2
Advices
• Orchids like to be a little squeezed in a pot
• Epiphytic orchids breathe, and some also carry out photosynthesis through the roots, so it's good to use transparent pots with many holes
• Water rarely enough for the roots to dry out
• The roots of orchids should not stand in the water - it can lead to their death - and they must have an air supply
